The Toda tribe is famous for their distinctive style of embroidery. Passed on through generations, the embroidery is done on stripes of red and black colour. The shawl adorned with the Toda embroidery is called Poothkuli. Known by the name, Pugur in Toda language (meaning flower), the embroidery tradition has lived through a century of its documented history to manifest today in drapes, dupattas, table cloth, stoles, kurtas, pajamas, skirts and jackets, besides the traditional Puthukuli (shawl), its original place of majesty.
For the Toda men and women, wearing an embroidered shawl is not only a matter of aesthetics but also a way of carrying oneself with dignity. Each lifecycle ceremony demands a particular design on the shawl, and the shawl complements and completes the carefully constructed aesthetic ecosystem of their environment. The embroidery is done only by the women and the designs are taken from their daily lives and from Nature. The motifs inspired by the rattan binding of their conical houses and temples, by butterflies, the sacred snakes, peacock’s tail feathers and so on. Though the women sit together often under a tree after lunch their embroidery is very individualistic. Embroidery styles are distinctive, and the Todas are able to identify whose handiwork and which village it comes from, by just looking at it. The women who are well-known for their needlecraft are from the villages around Ooty.
What makes this embroidery unusual from the others is its sewing pattern. It is unlike any other mainstream embroideries where the thread is simply sewn on the fabric, using a frame to make desired patterns. Here the warp and weft yarns of the base fabric are closely counted and done with the help of the reverse-stitch method. The patterns are embroidered so closely, following the thread count, that they look like they have been machine woven with no rough edges at the back as well. No sewing frame of any sort is used, and yet, the accuracy and intricacy of women who have no technical knowledge is mind-blowing.
This kind of embroidery is mainly done on coarse cotton fabric, traditionally white, beige or cream. Black and red threads are used to make the motifs, the most common of which is a flower. Nature plays a vital role in this art form, as the tribe solely lives in the lap of nature.
The kind of excellent craftsmanship that these women do, without any professional training or even modern learning, is a gift of ancient traditions that have been handed down to generations. Every motif in the pattern has a meaning that is close to life and nature.
Apart from the common flower, some motifs that are used include zigzag lines called “Hutz”. Booth Puhur is a combination of hearts and dots done on the border, whereas “Esh Puhur” is the name for arrow shapes designs, which are vital in tribal livelihood for hunting. Geometric shapes are vastly seen in this art form, including diamonds, triangles and hearts. A signature “W” design is made on the shawls covering the body of the fabric, known as “Thur Puhur”.
The words "kuty" or "awtty," which mean "stitching," and "kutyvoy," which refer to the embroidered item, are the local phrases used to characterise the Toda embroidery work. Materials utilised in this piece are artificial needles, woollen black and red threads, occasionally blue threads, and loosely woven white cloth. The material is half-white, coarsely bleached cotton cloth with bands woven into it. The bands are six inches apart and are made up of two bands: one in black and one in red. The embroidery is done with a single-stitch darning needle and is restricted to the area inside the bands.
Instead of using an embroidered frame, the reverse stitch method is used to count the warp and weft on cloth with a homogenous structure. A small amount of tuft is purposefully allowed to protrude throughout the needle stitching procedure to highlight the embroidered fabric's rich texture. Counting the warp and weft of the fabric used for embroidery produces a geometric design. Toda embroidery designs have an affinity for the natural world and the cycle of life.
This handicraft product is listed as a geographically tagged product and is protected under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act (GI Act) 1999 of the Government of India. It was registered by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under the title Toda Embroidery" and recorded at GI Application number 135 under Class 24, Class 25, and Class 26 as Textiles and Textile Goods, clothing, and Embroidery, respectively, in March 2013. A certificate of the GI registration was formally presented to the community leaders in June 2013. This was first initiated in 2008 and the agencies who supported this registration are the Toda Nalavaazhvu Sangam, Keystone Foundation, and Poompuhar.
For Toda embroidery work, there are no pattern books available. The designs are a reflection of the Toda women's creativity, as they visualise a pattern before transferring it onto fabric. The majority of the inspiration comes from the Nilgiris' natural surroundings, routine activities, legendary tales, and vibrant flora and fauna. To wear such a unique and tribal hand Tamil Nadu Nilgiri embroidery, visit the todaestore.com platform. Here you can explore and buy a wide range of embroidery works in different fabrics that are a true reflection of the rich history of Indian embroidery.
